is a camera for 126 film cartidges, a format introduced by the Kodak
company in 1963 together with a series of simple point-and-shoot
cameras built around this cartridge, called Instamatic. The cartrigde
has just to be dopped into the camera and advanced to the first photo,
no fiddeling with the film leader to get it engaged, no rewinding. The
film inside the cartridge is 35mm wide, so it goes into the existing processing machines, but it does not have the 2 rows of
sprockets. There is only one small hole per photo at
the bottom of the film to trigger the advance. The photo format is a
square 28x28mm format, usually reduced to 26.5x26.5 during processing.
The film is protected by a backing paper, like old 120 roll film, which
shows the film numbers, so no film counter is necessary. Production of
126 film stopped in the early 2000s.
There are now 3D printed cartridges to load 135 film. I bought one to
try, so I had to get a 126 camera. As these cameras cost next to
nothing because of the lack of film, I chose a top class model, a
Rollei A26 which you find on these pages as well..
This camera, a 133X, was for free as part of a lot. It's a basic
European model, made in Germany. The first Instamatic camera was the 50
model, built in the U.S., soon followed by the 100 and the 100s series,
the higher the number, the more features they had. The European 133
model for flashcubes was launched in 1968, it needs batteries to fire
the flash. In 1970 the 133X was introduced, with X-cubes that don't
need a battery.
The camera's main features are:
43mm F11 lens, fixed focus Shutter: 1/80, 1/40 for flash or dim light Size: 110 x 67 x 52 mm, Weight : 200 g
Front. Lens, viewer and switch for the slower speed.
Back. Film type and counter window.
Camera top. X-cube socket, Shutter release and film advance.
from below. No battery compartment.
Film compartment open.
The camera is easy to use,
just drop the cartridge into it, advance to the first photo and that's
it. There is nothing to set except slow speed/flash. As 126 cameras cost next to nothing, I would get a better model if you reall want to try them with film.
The only problem is film supply. Even the final last batches of film
are 15 years old and barely usable. Cartridges don't freeze well, so be
critical if someone offers film said to have been frozen. Film and
backing paper may stick and jam.
The reloadable 3D cassettes may be a solution if you are willing to
tinker with it. There are some snags: you will have the sprockets of
135 film in the upper part of the picture. So take it into account
composing your picture, Film advance is tricky. You have to test your
camera with a strip of film before loading unexposed film and find out,
how far your camera advances with the spockets of 135 film. It will not
be a full frame. The easiest way is to fire and advance with the lens
shielded from light several times after each photo. You will not have
any counter. Either you have a superb memory or you take notes. And
then there is loading and processing.
Loading has to be done in absolute (!) darkness or in a sleeve. Some
say that you can load a whole 24 exposure film. This might just go for
a thin re-used old cartridge and you have to wind tightly, but there is
a risk of jamming, at least in the 3D printed cartridges. Better you
load half of a 36 exposure film. Not counting the leader a 36 exp. film
is about 62 inches long, ~157 cm. So prepare a paper strip or a thread
of 31 inches or 78 cm to measure in the dark. Cut the film leader. Cut
your length. Fix one end to the spool with a piece of adhesive tape.
Then roll it up from the other end, try to make your roll as small as
possible. Put roll and spool into the cartrige and close the cartridge.
Secure with tape if necessary. That's it. If you cut half a 36 exp.
film, unroll and cut the rest and put it into a light tight film
container, wrapping the film with aluminium foil secures it a second
time. Do not forget to put a note on it. Do not cut too close to the
mouth of the 135 canister, you might use this for processing.
After putting the cartridge into the camera, you have to advance at
least 2 frames. Do not forget to cover the window on the back with
black tape first to prevent light leaks. If all goes well, you will get
about 20 - 24 exposures.
Back to the dark or the sleeve. If you process the film yourself, you
can tranfer the film directly into the spool of your drum. Otherwise
tape the film to the little strip hanging out of the original 135 film
canister (that's why you should not cut too close) and wind the film
back into the canister. You can now give it away for processing.
Eventually ask your lab for used canisters as you need 2 per 36
If you have an old 126 cartridge and you want just to try once, you can
"wiggle" it open. There are videos on the net how to. Do not forget to
tape the window in the cartridge with black tape from both sides. A
cracked open cartridge has to be secured very well. 3D printed ones are
easier to use.
The old cameras are fun
to use. There is a bit of tinkering to get it going, but it's nice to take a challenge.